What is Calendering process in Textile(garment) industry ?
Calendering
of textiles is a finishing process used to smooth, coat, or thin a
material. With textiles, fabric is passed between calender rollers at
high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such as
moire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types
of sateens.In preparation for calendering, the fabric is folded
lengthwise with the front side, or face, inside, and stitched together
along the edges.[1][2] The fabric can be folded together at full width,
however this is not done as often as it is more difficult.[2] The fabric
is then run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric
smoother and more lustrous.[3] High temperatures and pressure are used
as well.[2][4] Fabrics that go through the calendering process feel
thin, glossy and papery.[2]The wash durability of a calendared finish on
thermoplastic fibers like polyester is higher than on cellulose fibers
such as cotton. On blended fabrics such as Polyester/Cotton the
durability depends largely on the proportion of synthetic fiber
component present as well as the amount and type of finishing additives
used and the machinery and process conditions employed.Contents 1
Variations 1.1 Beetled 1.2 Watered 1.3
Embossed 1.4 Schreinerhttps 2 History 3 See also 4
ReferencesVariationsSeveral different finishes can be achieved through
the calendering process by varying different parts. The main different
types of finishes are beetling, watered, embossing and
Schreiner.[5]BeetledBeetling is a finish given to cotton and linen
cloth, and makes it look like satin. In the beetling process the fabric
goes over wooden rollers and is beaten with wooden hammers.[5]WateredThe
watered finish, also known as moire, is produced by using ribbed
rollers. These rollers compress the cloth and the ribs produce the
characteristic watermark effect by moving aside threads as well as
compressing them.[2][3] This leaves some of the threads round while
others get compressed and become flat.[5]EmbossedIn the embossing
process the rollers have engraved patterns on them, and the patterns
become stamped onto the fabric.[5] The end result is a raised or sunken
pattern, depending on the roller.[6] This works best with soft
fabrics.[5]SchreinerSimilar to the watered process, in the Schreiner
process the rollers are ribbed, only in the Schreiner process the ribs
are very fine, with as many as six hundred ribs per inch under extremely
high pressure. The threads are pressed flat with little lines in them,
which causes the fabric to reflect the light better than a flat surface
would. Cloth finished with the Schreinermethod has a very high lustre,
which is made more lasting by heating the rollers.[5]HistoryHistorically
calendering was done by hand with a huge pressing stone. For example in
China huge rocks were brought from the north of the Yangtze River. The
pressing stone was cut into a bowl shape, and the surface of the curved
bottom made perfectly smooth. After a piece of cloth was placed
underneath the stone the worker would stand on the stone and rock it
with his two feet in order to press the cloth.https://www.sanaprocess.in/calendering-service/
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